If your high school Spanish is still with you, you know that “pura vida” means “pure life.” If you head to Pavones, Costa Rica for a surf and yoga adventure, you’ll find that “pura vida” translates to the perfect escape. I was looking for mine among Costa Rica’s numerous offerings of eco vacations, surf camps and yoga retreats, and it took no more than a quick Google search to find Venus Surf Adventures: beginning surf lessons, daily yoga, rainforest hiking, and the most remote location possible. Known as “the town at the end of the road,” Pavones is literally the last stop before Panama on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast. But it can hardly be called a town: Electricity arrived in 1997; there is no bank or ATM, no post office, police presence, or shopping, and land lines arrived just last year, spawning the first Internet cafes. If you need 5-star accommodations (or even 2-star), Pavones is not for you.Getting There is Half the Fun…
Getting to a remote location poses your first adventure. After all, if it were easy to get to, it would be more developed. Fly to San José’s Juan Santamaría airport (SJO). The customs and immigration process is well organized and goes fairly quickly. Your first mini-adventure is to explore your way to the Sansa Airlines terminal, where you’ll catch a hopper flight to the southern Pacific coast. Exit the airport to the left, and proceed to the sidewalk. You’ll be offered help with your luggage, but unless you packed way too much, you shouldn’t need it. Either way, smile and say: “Pura vida!” Follow the sidewalk to the left, past the fire station, and into the parking lot in front of the Sansa Airlines terminal. Don’t be offended when they ask how much you weigh! The planes are small, so they monitor both luggage and passenger weight, for flying safety.
Intensifying the anticipated remoteness, I was advised in advance by adventure operators Dean and Ingrid, Hawaiian transplants and avid surfers, that despite their usual full groups, this week I was the only one signed up. As a frequent solo traveler, I didn’t mind and, thankfully, neither did they. We exchanged several emails and a phone call or two prior to my arrival, so when Germán and I rounded the dirt road into Pavones and pulled up next to the red shingled “beach house,” Ingrid walked across the lawn to greet me and I felt I was here to visit friends, and not at all like a tourist.Germán (pronounced “hed-MON”) was the taxista Dean and Ingrid had arranged to pick me up at the tiny landing strip in Golfito. The short domestic flight on the 12-passenger plane followed the 2 1/2–hour flight from Miami to San José. Soaring over miles of rainforest and a stunning coastline, it was reminiscent of “de plane” that brought distraught passengers to Fantasy Island to resolve their worries.
On the 2-hour drive to Pavones, the lush natural landscape brought new sights, smells, and sounds, erasing any memory of the stresses of daily life. Germán proudly shared his knowledge of the landscape along the way, explaining varieties of palm tree farms, pointing out rice fields, and calmly navigating the crossing of a wide river, via a primitive ‘ferry’. Like a ritual ‘crossing over’ to the other side, the last piece of the journey to Pavones leaves you no doubt that you’ve left behind what you came here to leave behind.
At first glance, I had my doubts. Ingrid’s smile was a nice welcome, but where were we? All I could see were dirt roads and shacks. How much did I pay for this? Is there indoor plumbing here? In fact, there is. There is much more to Pavones than initially meets the eye. Dirt roads
and rustic structures do frame the open grassy square referred to as ‘the soccer field,’ and constitute the village center. To the west of the soccer field are rocky paths leading to lodging, homes and eateries.But north and west of the center, rounding the point break, the Golfo Dulce – sweet gulf – is the main attraction and the reason most people come here. Experienced surfers and beginners like me are here to enjoy the long, rolling waves that constitute one of the longest left surf breaks in the world. Dense tropics all around, friendly people and a truly Zen feeling of relaxing yourself right out of the civilized world, complete the backdrop of this little corner of paradise.
A Surf and Yoga "Itinerary?!"
On the leisurely afternoon of day one, I sat with my hosts Dean and Ingrid at the picnic table on their front porch, the Pacific lapping on the shore just 20 meters away. The idea of this trip was to escape my Outlook calendar, but here I was looking at a detailed schedule for the week, complete with assigned restaurants for each meal of the day! What initially seemed a rigid plan turned out to be a relief, knowing that everything was carefully thought out in advance for maximum enjoyment by pros Dean and Ingrid, who know how easy it is in Pavones to lose track of time, space, and all sense of the organized world.
And they smartly refer to it as “Plan A,” knowing full well that Plans B and C are likely to come into play, including any adjustments you’d like to make along the way. There’s plenty of down time between activities, and fresh, delicious meals to keep you fueled up for early morning surfing, mid-morning yoga, and afternoon jungle trekking.
My cottage at the Riviera was a huge, open room with 4 beds, side tables, a dining table and chairs, and a large kitchen. The bathroom was also large with a huge shower. Windows all around keep you feeling surrounded by the beauty of the tropics. Birds of paradise, red ginger, 
exotic palms, butterflies, and dozens of bird species in a sweet serenade. A gigantic veranda, complete with Adirondack chairs and hammock, complete your new home away from home. The cottages can also be booked independent of Dean and Ingrid’s surf and yoga package, through: http://pavonesriviera.com.
Surf’s Up!
As friendly and welcoming as everyone was, at times I wondered if I was invading a private haven for true surfers. But as much as a special ‘club’ surfing is, it is not unfriendly. It was apparent I was a novice, but surfers are generally keen on watching beginners discover the magical Zen of catching a wave. The euphoria they know oh so well is simply meant to be wished
upon as many as possible (as long as nobody is “dropping in” on your wave). And the “live and let live” concept of the surfing world is not unlike the yoga world. A special understanding among those who have experienced the euphoria and rich rewards of the practice combine with an open welcome to those looking to discover the joys. In Costa Rica you might call it pura vida. Yogis say “namaste.”
Daily surfing lessons brought three different instructors: Katie, Tommy, and Dean. Katie was the perfect introductory teacher for the first two days – sweet, encouraging, and clearly experienced. Born in Costa Rica to American parents, she is a perfect hybrid of local and American sensibilities. Tommy is a surfer dude who knows his stuff. And just cute enough that you don’t mind him focusing on your ‘form’ on the waves.
The surf lessons were hard, but there’s a reason people get addicted to this. Even after falling off or getting ‘worked’ by a wave I couldn’t wait to paddle back out to try to catch another one. The
better shape you’re in beforehand, the easier it will be and the more fun you’ll have. Paddling out through the surf is more than half the battle, and nearly every time, I had to take a break before trying to catch another one. But the breaks are equally satisfying: when you learn how to sit up on your board (not necessarily as easy as it looks), it is a welcome respite from the constant “up dog” paddling position, and provides a higher view of the stunning scenery, the surfers on the bigger waves around the other side of the Cantina, and incoming waves entering the bay from the Pacific.
Massage Relief
Katie doubles as a massage therapist and gave me one of the best massages of my life – beating out luxury hotel spas that charge triple the price. Perhaps it was her understanding of the muscles needing attention after a novice’s day on the waves, and there’s a lot to be said for that. She released tension from nooks and crannies, gently stretched and pulled, and reset me for the next morning’s 7:00 a.m. paddle out.
On the leisurely afternoon of day one, I sat with my hosts Dean and Ingrid at the picnic table on their front porch, the Pacific lapping on the shore just 20 meters away. The idea of this trip was to escape my Outlook calendar, but here I was looking at a detailed schedule for the week, complete with assigned restaurants for each meal of the day! What initially seemed a rigid plan turned out to be a relief, knowing that everything was carefully thought out in advance for maximum enjoyment by pros Dean and Ingrid, who know how easy it is in Pavones to lose track of time, space, and all sense of the organized world.
And they smartly refer to it as “Plan A,” knowing full well that Plans B and C are likely to come into play, including any adjustments you’d like to make along the way. There’s plenty of down time between activities, and fresh, delicious meals to keep you fueled up for early morning surfing, mid-morning yoga, and afternoon jungle trekking.
My cottage at the Riviera was a huge, open room with 4 beds, side tables, a dining table and chairs, and a large kitchen. The bathroom was also large with a huge shower. Windows all around keep you feeling surrounded by the beauty of the tropics. Birds of paradise, red ginger, 
exotic palms, butterflies, and dozens of bird species in a sweet serenade. A gigantic veranda, complete with Adirondack chairs and hammock, complete your new home away from home. The cottages can also be booked independent of Dean and Ingrid’s surf and yoga package, through: http://pavonesriviera.com.Surf’s Up!
As friendly and welcoming as everyone was, at times I wondered if I was invading a private haven for true surfers. But as much as a special ‘club’ surfing is, it is not unfriendly. It was apparent I was a novice, but surfers are generally keen on watching beginners discover the magical Zen of catching a wave. The euphoria they know oh so well is simply meant to be wished
upon as many as possible (as long as nobody is “dropping in” on your wave). And the “live and let live” concept of the surfing world is not unlike the yoga world. A special understanding among those who have experienced the euphoria and rich rewards of the practice combine with an open welcome to those looking to discover the joys. In Costa Rica you might call it pura vida. Yogis say “namaste.”Daily surfing lessons brought three different instructors: Katie, Tommy, and Dean. Katie was the perfect introductory teacher for the first two days – sweet, encouraging, and clearly experienced. Born in Costa Rica to American parents, she is a perfect hybrid of local and American sensibilities. Tommy is a surfer dude who knows his stuff. And just cute enough that you don’t mind him focusing on your ‘form’ on the waves.
The surf lessons were hard, but there’s a reason people get addicted to this. Even after falling off or getting ‘worked’ by a wave I couldn’t wait to paddle back out to try to catch another one. The
better shape you’re in beforehand, the easier it will be and the more fun you’ll have. Paddling out through the surf is more than half the battle, and nearly every time, I had to take a break before trying to catch another one. But the breaks are equally satisfying: when you learn how to sit up on your board (not necessarily as easy as it looks), it is a welcome respite from the constant “up dog” paddling position, and provides a higher view of the stunning scenery, the surfers on the bigger waves around the other side of the Cantina, and incoming waves entering the bay from the Pacific.Massage Relief
Katie doubles as a massage therapist and gave me one of the best massages of my life – beating out luxury hotel spas that charge triple the price. Perhaps it was her understanding of the muscles needing attention after a novice’s day on the waves, and there’s a lot to be said for that. She released tension from nooks and crannies, gently stretched and pulled, and reset me for the next morning’s 7:00 a.m. paddle out.
Yoga and Surfing: Grace under pressure
They have more in common than you might suspect: Balance, grace under pressure, feeling the stress of the “outside world’ simply fall away into oblivion. You are in tune with the universe. It’s you and your mat, or you and your surfboard. It’s energy, pulsing through your body in the most invigorating of ways.
Daily yoga classes called for a beautiful walk along the road parallel to the beach, to Shooting Star yoga studio. A gigantic 30 x 50 open air wooden pavilion set on a sloping, brilliant green lawn, this place could not be more feng shui. It looks out across the quiet dirt road to the ocean, and a babbling brook running down one side, all the way to the ocean, provides the perfect soundtrack. Iridescent blue morpho butterflies flop around the pavilion, offering the best kind of distraction you could imagine. But instructor Amy Khoo keeps you serenely focused, stretching your surf muscles, while strengthening all you need to paddle back out the next morning.
Amy has been practicing yoga for 14 years of her 15 years living in Costa Rica. She studied and did teacher training in Ashtanga yoga with David Swenson and also studied and practices Bikram yoga. Her special “yoga for surfers” class focuses on asanas that improve your performance and enjoyment on the waves.
Daily yoga classes called for a beautiful walk along the road parallel to the beach, to Shooting Star yoga studio. A gigantic 30 x 50 open air wooden pavilion set on a sloping, brilliant green lawn, this place could not be more feng shui. It looks out across the quiet dirt road to the ocean, and a babbling brook running down one side, all the way to the ocean, provides the perfect soundtrack. Iridescent blue morpho butterflies flop around the pavilion, offering the best kind of distraction you could imagine. But instructor Amy Khoo keeps you serenely focused, stretching your surf muscles, while strengthening all you need to paddle back out the next morning.
Amy has been practicing yoga for 14 years of her 15 years living in Costa Rica. She studied and did teacher training in Ashtanga yoga with David Swenson and also studied and practices Bikram yoga. Her special “yoga for surfers” class focuses on asanas that improve your performance and enjoyment on the waves.
From Left to Right
Mid-week, Plan A called for a boat trip across the gulf to remote Matapalo, at the end of the Osa Peninsula. Pavones is a left surf break (waves roll in left to right, from the beach), while Matapalo is a right surf break. Basically, you’re getting the chance to ride in on the board in the opposite direction. It not only makes for a balanced surf experience, but also takes you to a wilderness even more remote than Pavones.In Matapalo we were lucky to see…pavones! The pavón is a very large turkey-like bird, silvery gray in color, from which Pavones took its name. They travel in pairs, and we spotted them roaming in the tropical rainforest, which cascades from the high hills straight down to the beach. It was a rare occasion to spot them, but less rare to see all the other wildlife, abundant in this remote area: red macaws, spider monkeys, howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, agouti, toucans, and countless other beautiful bird varieties. Not to mention the flora: cacao beans hanging off their branches, cashews hanging naturally in their large green half-moon green casings, countless varieties of trees, palms, shrubs, flowers, in this, the country with the greatest biodiversity density in the world. For a special adventure, head to Tiskita.
In such a remote location, you might wonder what’s for dinner. You’d be surprised at the amazing variety: In addition to the abundant variety of tropical fruits, there’s Mexican, Brazilian, Israeli, Italian (homemade gnocchi with local shrimp!), and of course Costa Rican. One of my favorite dining experiences was at a shack along the road I would never have taken for a restaurant. The lady of the house (where she lived, behind the shack) made us patacones – green plantains she hacked off a tree with a machete right in front of us, peeled, sliced thick, fried, smashed flat, and fried again. Served with a delicious fresh salsa and Costa Rica’s signature sauce: Lizano, a cross between A1 and ketchup, but vegetable-based. Remember: If you want to be in good shape for your 7:00 a.m. surf lesson, go light on the alcohol at dinner.
It’s Not Over til it’s Over…
If you think your adventure is over once you’ve waved goodbye to Dean and Ingrid, a twinge in your stomach as you drive away from what has become your personal paradise, you may be in for more. Heavy rains the night before my departure washed out the shoreline of the river we crossed on the ferry upon arrival. Three cars were waiting to drive onto the ferry, and much debate was occurring about options. The ferry couldn’t pull up to the muddied shore for cars to drive on. Some opted to have their luggage thrown to the ferry operator, then waded through hip-high water, to board. My taxi driver offered the option, and he would call a colleague to pick me up on the other side. Contemplating a very soggy day including two plane rides, airport waiting time, etc., I hoped there was another option. There was.
We back-tracked down the road and turned off to a different road around the mountain, to reach the airport via a longer route. It could have meant missing the flight. As tropical rainforests will have it, the rains poured down in sheets and buckets at times so loud, conversation was impossible.
I waited at the airport with fellow passengers until the storm let up enough for the plan to safely take off. We were entertained by the son of an airport worker, who had a deck of cards and a game devised to play you out of a few hundred colones. He was so enthusiastic and proud of his income-earning scheme, it was easy to want to lose. His father made coffee in a tin pan, on a stove inside the ‘office,’ readily offering it to waiting passengers. When at long last the rain-induced fog lifted, we were able to board, and flew back to San Jose.
Logistics
Round-trip air transport from Miami or Fort Lauderdale on American Airlines can start from $158+taxes in the low season and from $250+taxes in the high season. Round-trip Sansa flight to Golfito: $216. If you need to stay overnight in San Jose, try the luxurious InterContinental Hotel in swanky Escazú, with Multiplaza, the largest shopping mall in Central America, across the street. For more modest accommodations, try the Xandari Resort and Spa or Buena Vista.
Total cost of the Venus Surf Adventure is US$1990. and includes all meals, non-alcoholic beverages, surf lessons, yoga classes, and excursions. Taxes, alcoholic beverages and tips (greatly appreciated) are extra. Transport from Golfito to Pavones is $70 each way (+tip).
Total cost of the Venus Surf Adventure is US$1990. and includes all meals, non-alcoholic beverages, surf lessons, yoga classes, and excursions. Taxes, alcoholic beverages and tips (greatly appreciated) are extra. Transport from Golfito to Pavones is $70 each way (+tip).
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